UN-SPRAINED
EPISODE 4:
THE BIRD

GIVING THE MIDDLE FINGER

A LITTLE MORE ATTENTION 

Yay! You want to know a little more about your middle finger. And its needs.

Welcome to my new podcast Un-Sprained where I answer YOUR questions. This 4th release hits a topic a little unexpected.  The BIRD!

Just a heads up, this is an otherwise clean podcast on injuries, training for climbing and returning to climbing following disaster

Join my clients, athletes and others just like you to discover why you are always injured and what you can learn to keep from repeating the cycle. I coach COACHES themselves, pro climbers (like past athletes Angie Payne, David Graham and Daniel Woods) and I LOVE helping you to climb injury free.

This Episode

 

Wonder why your middle finger is more prone to injuries? Wonder how to rehab it for maximal stability and strength?

 

Today's episode of Un-Sprained is just for you!

 

We discuss my favorite new hand specific therapy tool that is actually affordable AND portable! We delve into ultrasound of the middle finger and its friends, and we give YOU a reason to give a sigh of relief, with something you haven't tried yet to manage or recover from that injury. Have a great day at the crag!

2

How to Listen to Un-Sprained:

 

 

Click above. Put it on automatic download from wherever you get yourPodcasts so you never miss a show. Upcoming topics include taping for specific injuries, the top 5 avoidance mentalities to support for proper injury recovery, and how hang-boarding is SUPPOSED to be added in to your rehab and progression in climbing. 

 

If it resonates with you I hope you share it with a friend, on social media, and by all means, join me for my upcoming class on Finger strength and stability with my new favorite rehab device, the  Hand Web.(P.S.Get 15% off the web with code THE BIRD this week only!)

3

Upcoming WorkShop Alert!

As requested, I have ANOTHER workshop coming up in late December. Don't worry, it will be pre-recorded so ANYONE in any time zone can watch/join at their convenience.  

More details will be coming soon!

 

Prepare for my upcoming finger stability workshop by pre-ordering the hand web. Hand therapists swear by this thing. Forget everything great that you've heard about hang-boarding or even moon boarding, this beats them right out! With practice, fingers once weak and floppy will become controlled and smooth. From this base we THEN build specific strength, but for those injured, or returning to climbing from injury, we start wit this tool.

 

Recommendation: Start with the lightest resistance you think you will need. 

Light Tan/Yellow Webs: 

  • Hot, bad finger injuries (fractures, lumbricals, lateral collateral ligaments).

  • New female climbers with weak hands.

  • Those overcoming crush injuries.

 

Red Web:

  • Those who are un-injured.

  • Those who have advanced out of my Prehab schedule (have trained with the tan web for 1 month), and are asymptomatic entering into Part A of my rehab preparation for Return to Climbing  schedule.

  • Advanced climbers for warm-up

  • Those at the tailend of recovering from pulley injury, tendonitis, tendonosis.

 

Green Web:

  • Those who have trained with the red web for 1 month, and are asymptomatic entering into Part B of my rehab Return to Climbing schedule.

  • Un-injured 5.12+ climbers who regularly climb 4+ days a week.

  • Thumb injuries who have passed my Rehab Phase 1

Blue Web:

  • Those who have trained with the red web for 1 month, and are asymptomatic entering into Part B of my rehab Return to Climbing schedule.

  • Un-injured 5.12+ climbers who regularly climb 6+ days a week.

  • Thumb injuries who have passed my Rehab Phase 1 with the green web and are quite strong.

Get 15% off any of the Hand Webs with code "THEBIRD" this week only!

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Give The Bird Some Needed AttentionThe Climbing Doc
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